In March 2024 I travelled 3,500 kms in ten days, mainly in Namibia. I was travelling with my wife, Tibby, our daughter, Megan, and her partner, Tom Chisholm. Our route took us from Cape Town through the Namaqua and Richtersveld National Parks in South Africa and then in Namibia to the Fish River Canyon, Sossussvlei, the Namib Dunes, Cape Cross Seals and the Twyfelfontein Stone Engravings.
Tom is a birder and saw 79 species of birds on this trip.
We were travelling in my 2010 Toyota Fortuner and pulling an Echo trailer. When we camped Tibby and I slept in the trailer rooftop tent and Megan and Tom slept in a ground tent.
When I quote prices, I use the original currency. At the beginning of my trip the exchange rates to the GB pound were: South African Rand 24.13 and Namibian Dollar 24.13. I have used these rates throughout this report, irrespective if rates changed or the actual conversion rates differed.
Day 1 – Monday 18th March 2024 – Cape Town to Varswater Beach in the Namaqua National Park, South Africa – 532 kms
We left our Camps Bay home at 07h30 and had an easy 175 kms run to Kardoesie Farm Stall, on the Piekernierskloof Pass, just before Citrusdal where a good farm breakfast was had. Tom started identifying birds.
Just after Vanrhynsdorp we approached the Sishen-Saldanha railway line as a train passed over the N7. The line is 861-kilometre-long heavy-haul railway line. It connects iron ore mines near Sishen in the Northern Cape with the port at Saldanha Bay in the Western Cape. It is used primarily to transport iron ore and manganese (60 million tonnes per year) and does not carry passenger traffic. I understand that all the output goes to China.
We filled up at Garies and then headed west towards the coast. At the Groenriviermond gate of the Namaqua National Park we deflated our tyres and then tackled the three kilometres of dune sand. We followed the coastline north to Varswater Camp Site which has four designated sites each with a circular brick enclosure 1500mm high and three metres across to protect the camping party from the wind. We were the only campers at Varswater. The wind was subdued, and we delighted in our beautiful surroundings.
Tom had the first night of his life under canvas.
Day 2 – Tuesday 19th March 2024 – to Sendelingsdrift in the Richtersveld National Park, South Africa – 372 kms
Tom saw 5 new bird species
Coffee was brewed at 07h00 and by 09h00 we connected the trailer to the car and were on the move.
At the junction for the Spoegrivier cave we parked the trailer and took the sandy road to the cave. Megan and Tom climbed to pose above the cave.
We inflated our tyres at the exit gate and then spent several hours getting through Hondeklip and Koingnaas to Kleinzee where we had lunch at the Crazy Crayfish, found and fixed a bolt and nut that had fallen off the trailer door and bought fresh bread at the family run Kleinzee Bakery.
We checked into our chalets at the Sendelingsdrift Camp of the Richtersveld National Park and enjoyed a braai by the Orange River.
Day 3 – Wednesday 20th March 2024 – Richtersveld – 144 kms
Tom saw 13 new bird species
We backtracked to the gate of the park and took the road over Helskloof Pass. This is a favourite road of mine as it opens up spectacular views over the arid landscape that is the Richtersveld. We passed by Gannakouriep and over the Maerpoort Pass in wonder at the beauty of our surroundings.
A sandy track brought us down to the Orange River where we set up lunch at De Hoop. Tibby had two bread rolls snatched from her hand by a quick monkey.
We headed back to Sendelingsdrift via Akkedis Pass and Halfmens Pass.
Day 4 – Thursday 21st March 2024 – via Fish River Canyon to Aus, Namibia – 520 kms
Tom saw 13 new bird species
We crossed the Orange River with our car and trailer on the pont and passed through the Namibian Border.
The excellent Namibian gravel roads took us eastwards along the Orange River passing over the Fish River at the confluence of the two rivers. We turned north and eventually arrived at the main viewing platform for the Fish River Canyon. It is the largest canyon in Africa and is the second most visited tourist attraction in Namibia. The canyon is a lot smaller than Grand Canyon in the USA, but it is still the second biggest canyon in the world. It features a gigantic ravine, in total about 160 kilometres long, up to 27 km wide and in places almost 550 metres deep. The view over the canyon is spectacular.
We drove a kilometre up the canyon and marvelled at the path for hikers that descended from there to the river and the five-day hike to Aix Aix.
We achieved a third view of the Canyon by driving a kilometre south of the main viewing platform.
I tried to recreate a photo taken in 2014 at this spot. My friend, Kevin, who was travelling with me, very kindly had a painting done based on that photo.
Thirty minutes later we arrived at the Gondwana Canon Roadhouse where we had lunch surrounded by memorabilia. Tom found a garden behind the Roadhouse that was safe harbour for many birds.
A long drive of over 300 kms brought us to the Gondwana Desert Horse Inn near Aus. We had drinks on the terrace but could not tarry as we were staying at the Geisterschlucht self-catering cottage on the estate. The ‘Ghost Cottage’ proved to be a disappointment. It was clearly an old farmhouse that had been altered to accommodate guests. A long room at the front of the cottage contains the basic kitchen, dining area and lounge. Two bedrooms are behind and behind them is bathroom complex containing communal basins and private showers and toilets. Everything was very basic, with no comfort and little privacy. We dropped our bags and headed back to the Desert Horse Inn for a lovely dinner.
We were not disturbed by ghosts during the night.
Day 5 – Friday 22nd March 2024 – to Neuras Wine and Wildlife – 330 kms
Tom saw 11 new bird species
We started the day at the Commonwealth Graves Commission Cemetery in Aus. It has 128 graves of both South African and Germans who principally died from the influenza epidemic of 1918.
The gravel road north from Aus is wide and regularly graded. It is safe and comfortable to drive at 90kph. We stopped at the Helmeringhausen Hotel for their famous apple cake.
We arrived at Neuras Wine and Wildlife Estate at lunchtime. Neuras Wine and Wildlife is an oasis in the desert, boasting natural fresh-water fountains and lush palm trees, and produces wines and spirits from one of the driest vineyards in the world.
We tasted three of their red wines as we shared a cheese board.
I did some basic repairs to the trailer assisted by the lodge staff.
In the afternoon we wandered around the oasis where a steady supply of water allows them to grow grapes. Tom found lots of birds enjoying this haven.
Day 6 – Saturday 23rd March 2024 – via Sossussvlei to Walvis Bay – 536 kms
Tom saw 2 new bird species
We left in the dark and drove for an hour, arriving at the gate to Sossusvlei at sunrise. We joined the queue of ten cars at the gate and were quickly allowed to proceed. We left our trailer near the gate.
The Sossusvlei area in the southern Namib Desert is characterized by high sand dunes in different shades of orange – the colour an indication of a high concentration of iron, after being exposed to the process of oxidation over many years. The older the dunes, the more intense the reddish colour. These dunes are among the highest in the world; many of them higher than 200 metres, the highest being the one nicknamed Big Daddy, about 325 metres high.
The magic of Sossusvlei is to appreciate the height and beauty of the dunes. That is best appreciated when the sun is low, and the shadows are long. At midday when there are no shadows it is far more difficult to appreciate the dunes. I, therefore, believe that it is important to appreciate the 75-kilometre drive in the early morning to Sossusvlei rather than rush, as most do, to the end point.
As we started on our journey three hot air balloons rose several kilometres away. Tibby and I did a balloon ride with the same operator in 2017 and marvelled at his expertise. He does not go all the way to Sossusvlei but rises and drops around interesting dunes nearer to base.
We drove slowly and stopped a few times to photograph dunes.
Several hikers were well progressed in climbing Dune 45.
The tar road ends five kilometres from Sossussvlei. We deflated our tyre pressures to get us through the soft sand. Sossussvlei was the end of the journey displaying a dead tree.
We drove back to the base of Big Daddy. A few eager souls were well progressed in climbing Big Daddy which is three times higher than Dune 45. We walked a kilometre around the base to marvel at Deadvlei.
We inflated our tyres.
As we headed back to the gate the shadows of the dunes were already getting smaller.
We stopped for lunch at the curious place that is Solitaire.
The sign for the Tropic of Capricorn was the place for photographs.
I always enjoy driving through the Kuiseb Pass. Desert passes hold a special attraction for me.
We made good progress on the good gravel road and arrived in Walvis Bay to stay two nights at the Protea Pelican Point Hotel.
Day 7 – Sunday 24th March 2024 – Namib Dunes in Len’s 4×4
Tom saw 15 new bird species
Len Kooitjie picked us up at 07h00 in his Toyota Hilux pickup. Tibby and I travelled in 2017 for seven days from Luderitz to Walvis Bay in a convoy organised by Live the Journey and led by Len and supported by his brother Luciano. Len proved to be an outstanding leader. In October 2022 Tibby, Annie and I did a four-day trip in the Namib Dunes with Luciano. On the penultimate day of that trip, we met up with Len who was doing a day trip. That gave us the idea for today’s day trip.
We stopped on the esplanade of Walvis to catch our first sight of flamingos.
We passed through the salt works and entered the Naukluft Namib National Park. After a while Len turned off the beach into the dunes taking us on a roller coaster of a ride. Few people have so much understanding of the desert and the dunes as Len. We stopped at a high point overlooking Sandwich Harbour for a coffee break.
Sandwich Harbour is a bay and a lagoon and in the early 1900s was used as a harbour to offload equipment and provisions for the diamond fields further south. It was deemed to be inferior to Walvis Bay as a harbour, so was never developed.
We returned to the beach to a colony of thousands of seals. They were grumpy at our arrival, and many headed out to sea. A black backed jackal was feasting off a dead seal.
We entered Langewand which is a 30 kilometre stretch of beach where the sea hits the dunes at high tide. The tide was coming in, but Len had timed things so that we could traverse the Langewand with only an occasional wave lapping at our wheels.
We passed the wreck of the Shawnee with a promise to return and continued south to the Eduard Bohlen.
Eduard Bohlen was a cargo ship that was wrecked in September 1909 in a thick fog. The wreck currently lies in the sand 400 m from the shoreline. We explored the wreck.
We returned to the Shawnee which we photographed while Len set up our lunch table.
The Shawnee was a fishing trawler that sank in 1976 where the shifting sands of the dunes meet the sea. Sometimes it is covered with sand while at other times it lies in the water. Today it was just in the water.
We enjoyed our lunch.
We could not return via Langewand as the tide was now high so Len took us back through the dunes. Up and again up and then down and down and down and again up. Len dropped us back at the hotel after eight hours having given us the highlight of the trip.
Day 8 – Monday 25th March 2024 – via Cape Cross to Spitzkoppe – 342 kms
Tom saw 2 new bird species
Despite having had breakfast only an hour before we stopped at Antons in Swakopmund for their famous apple strudel and cream.
An easy run brought us to the Cape Cross Seal Colony where a wooden walkway brings one very close to the seals. To my surprise I was hurried back to the car because some of my passengers found the smell unpleasant.
We stopped to look at quartz stones being sold along the road.
Lunch was had at the coffee bar in Henties Bay Spar. Tom particularly liked his milkshake.
Mid-afternoon we arrived at the outcrop of hills in the desert that is Spitzkoppe. My research had told me that Camp Sites 17B, 18A and 18B were the best. We camped at 18B in a small valley surrounded by magnificent rock structures.
Day 9- Tuesday 26th March 2024 –to Mowani Lodge Campsite – 225 kms
Tom saw 4 new bird species
In the morning, we made our way to the Small Bushman Paradise Cave where our excellent guide talked us through the rock paintings.
We spent a while wandering through the amazing rock shapes.
An easy four-hour drive brought us to Mowani Mountain Lodge where we relaxed on the veranda with drinks and WIFI. I persuaded the gardener to help me fill up our water.
We then made our way to our campsite on the property. These are delightful sites, nestled in the rocks, each with their own bathroom and a kitchen counter and basin.
Day 10 – Wednesday 27th March 2024 – Via Twyfelfontein to Windhoek – 478 kms
Tom saw 3 new bird species
Earlier in the trip my fridge had failed and there had been no opportunity to have it fixed. I suspect that meant that we ate food that had gone off. My three passengers had been visiting the toilet too much over the previous 48 hours. With Easter approaching I was worried that we might have three very sick passengers (I seemed to be largely OK) in Etosha National Park at a time when medical help might be difficult to find. We agreed that we would drop Etosha from the itinerary and head for Windhoek for the Easter weekend.
But first we headed to Twyfelfontein Stone Engravings. Twyfelfontein consists of a spring in a valley flanked by the slopes of a sandstone table mountain that receives very little rainfall.
The site has been inhabited for 6,000 years, first by hunter-gatherers and later by Khoikhoi herders. Both ethnic groups used it as a place of worship and a site to conduct shamanist rituals. In the process of these rituals at least 2,500 items of rock carvings have been created, as well as a few rock paintings. We had an excellent tour before it got too hot.
We turned south and headed for Windhoek where this trip ended after ten days and 3,500 kilometres.
Except for Etosha, Megan and Tom had experienced the highlights of Namibia.
Postscript 1: An hour on a saline drip on Easter Friday in a Windhoek hospital and a prescription of medication were needed to return everyone to ruddy health.
Postscript 2: On their last day in Windhoek, we took Megan and Tom to the pleasant Daan Viljoen Park close to Windhoek, where we enjoyed the 4×4 track and the attractive setting.
Vehicles and equipment
I drive a three litre, diesel 2010 Toyota Fortuner which I bought in 2014 with 76,000 km on the clock. At the end of this trip, it had done 212,000 km. I have added the following: ARB front bull bars, Fortuner bash plate, Safari snorkel, enhanced coils, springs and shock absorbers, secondary battery system, 72 litre built in extra diesel tank, Rockshockerz purpose built rear bumper and carriers for two spare wheels reduced now to one wheel carrier), Front Runner roof rack, a pull-out awning fixed to the roof rack, Front Runner stainless steel/aluminium camp table, two diesel jerry cans and a 72 litre National Luna fridge/freezer.
For when I get stuck, I carry a box of towing and snatch ropes, a high lift jack, two other jacks, an ARB portable compressor, two Desert escape sand tracks, a 9000-winch fixed to the front bumper and a spade.
The Echo 2 Trailer was bought in 2018. The reason to use the trailer is so that I can accommodate more than two people on the trip. There is not enough space in the Fortuner to carry four people, all their luggage and all the camping equipment that is needed. The trailer has two cubic metres of general storage, a kitchen compartment containing crockery, food and a two-plate gas stove, two gas containers, a 120-litre water tank, two diesel jerry cans and a bed on the roof with a tent that opens over the bed and extends to the side of the trailer.
Whenever I can, I stay in hotels or self-catering units, but if these are not available, I am ready to camp in relative luxury with an Oztent RV5 tent, camp bed, one sleeping bag for temperatures down to 7⁰C and another for temperatures below that, Oztent Goanna chairs, a selection of pots, pans and cutlery, braai grid and a sixty-litre tank of fresh water.
I used Garmin InReach technology on this trip. Travelling alone in remote areas might be risky. Garmin developed the inReach system which allows one to communicate with others, using text messaging, through the Iridium Satellite network. The most important feature is a SOS function which sends a message to, a Garmin operated emergency centre in the USA, which then tries to exchange messages with the sender of the SOS and begin coordinating a rescue. They have details of your emergency contacts who are advised that you have initiated a SOS signal. There is also a facility to send a standardised message to multiple parties. I used this function at the end of every day to tell our families that we were safe and to show where we were. The inReach facility is integrated into some devices, particularly those used for hiking and marine activities. I have an inReach Mini. which has minimum functionality (besides the satellite communication) and is cumbersome to use alone. It can, however, be Bluetooth paired to other devices, which makes it very powerful. I pay £35 per month while travelling.
Fuel consumption
I travelled 3,479 km in my vehicle, consuming 619 litres of diesel, with an average consumption of 5.62 kms per litre. The total cost for petrol was £575 and the average cost per litre, in £pence, of petrol, in the countries I travelled in, was South Africa 104p and Namibia 89p.
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